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Cut-Groove and Plain-End Piping Systems

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Hole-cut piping

Mechanical tees (XGQT04, XGQT04G, L922) give a branch outlet at any point without welding. A hole is first cut in the pipe, then the tee is fitted. The system meets NFPA 13 requirements, is UL listed and FM approved. A Lede hole template is available for manual hole marking. It reduces welding time and burn risk and can cut stock variety by up to 70% compared with conventional outlets. Grooved-end and threaded outlets are available. Two upper housing segments can also be joined to make a mechanical cross. See the mechanical tees page for products.

Plain-end HDP piping

The HDP coupling has a four-bolt housing that grips the pipe with machined teeth. Ramps on the outside of the housing help the coupling slide past obstructions when the line is repositioned.

  1. Place the housings over the gasket, insert the bolts and hand-tighten the nuts.
  2. Mark each pipe end at 1" from the end.
  3. Place the gasket at the middle of the marks with the pipe ends butted together.
  4. Tighten the nuts alternately until the bolt pads touch metal to metal.

A silicone-based lubricant is recommended for the HDP series. Not suitable for PVC pipe.

Plain-end and bevelled-end pipe

Plain-end pipe is preferred for grooving. Bevelled-end pipe is also accepted if the wall is 9.5 mm (0.375") or thinner and the bevel is 37.5° ± 2.5° per ANSI B16.25 (or 30° per ASTM A-53). Remove weld flash near the pipe ends, otherwise it enters the roll groover track and cuts a wrong groove. On spiral-welded pipe, flash must be removed from the gasket seat area. Welding a grooved nipple to the pipe end is also acceptable. When grinding, do not over-grind the surface, and apply a rust-preventive coating to the ground area. On galvanized pipe the gasket seat must be smooth, free of scale and defect-free. For pipe thicker than 9.5 mm, cut grooving is recommended instead of roll grooving.

For quotes and technical support, contact us: +90 216 327 85 05, info@teknoyangin.com.tr.

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